It is named after the lake it overlooks, north of Viterbo
near the Umbrian border. It is universally renowned for the miracle of
Corpus Christi, in connection with the miracle of the Eucharist that
occurred in 1263. While a Bohemian priest was celebrating Mass at the tomb
of St. Christina, he saw the blood of Christ flow from the consecrated host.
Its fortunate position on the hillsides sloping down from
the Volsini mountains has always fostered a series of human settlements, as
documented by the remains of primitive pile-dwellings found at the bottom of
the lake.
Its tourism-related fame is also due to the nearby state
road of Via Cassia, as well as the fact that for centuries it was used a
strategic stopping point for pilgrims on their way to Rome. According to
some scholars, its 'ancestor' Vélzna - the last of the twelve cities
of the Etruscan federation to surrender to the Roman invasion (265 BC)
- was located on the cliff of nearby Orvieto (about thirty km to the
northwest). Instead, for others the pagus was located near the
modern-day town. During the Roman era, the city was known as Volsinii and
it was given the title of municipium. It maintained its prestige
during the early years of Christianity, as documented by the vast catacombs
of St. Christina, the martyr to whom the collegiate church is
dedicated. Traces of the medieval era can be found in the castle
of Monaldeschi della Cervara that dominates the historic centre. The
lakeside area of Bolsena offers comfortable accommodation facilities
that are frequented by Italian and other European clients in the summer as
well as the other seasons. The most representative monument is the collegiate
church of Santa Christina, built in the Romanesque style. Its current
appearance can be attributed mainly to work done on it during the
fifteenth century during the period of Cardinal Giovanni de' Medici.
The monument is the outcome of a series of structural
interventions, some of which probably date to the pagan era. The
oldest part is composed of the original oratory, created from the cut
of the catacomb galleries surrounding the sepulchre of Santa
Christina. This is a tufaceous grotto where the miracle of Corpus
Christi took place. Subsequently, the collegiate church was built in
the eleventh-twelfth century, followed by the Chapel of the Miracle
at the end of the seventeenth century (the facade was redone in the
nineteenth century). The interior of the middle church (collegiate church),
with a nave and two aisles that are separated by roughly-finished bombé
columns, has maintained the general layout of the original Romanesque
structure: a square apse with a cross-vault and trussed ceiling. There is a
lovely fifteenth-century polyptych attributed to Sano di Pietro and
Benvenuto di Giovanni depicting the Madonna enthroned with child between
St. George, St. Peter, St. Paul and St. Christina. In the cyma: Christ
Benedictory and the Annunciation. In the predella: on the side, St.
George and the dragon, St. George converts the princess' father, St. George
blesses the people of Silene, Decapitation of St. George; in the centre:
Pietà with Mary and John. The Chapel of the Rosary, with Gothic
cross-vaults and fifteenth-century frescoes, is off the right aisle. In the
Chapel of St. Lucia, at the end of the right aisle, there are frescoes by
the Umbrian-Sienese school that probably date to the second half of the
fifteenth century, with Nativity scenes. A white-marble Romanesque portal
decorated in bas relief leads to the Baroque Chapel of the Miracle.
Located under a lovely eighteenth-century altarpiece by
Trevisani on the main altar are three sacred stones with stains on them that,
according to tradition, are the blood of the Eucharistic miracle. A fourth
stone is displayed in a magnificent reliquary by Orvieto artist Ravelli.
Over the smaller altars we can admire two eighteenth-century canvases, one
depicting St. John the Evangelist with the Trinity and the other the Madonna
del Carmine with the souls of Purgatory, St. George and St. Christina. From
here, we can move on to the Grotto of St. Christina, created tram the
catacomb galleries surround the saint's sepulchre. On the right is the
Chapel of St. Michael, with a lovely ceramic altarpiece. In the middle is
the Altar of the Miracle, encircled by a sixteenth-century balustrade
with a ninth-century ciborium sustained by four Corinthian columns; the
frontal is composed of basaltic stone with the footprints of the Christian
heroine who, according to tradition, held the martyr's body when it was
thrown into the lake. On the wall to the left of the altar (decorated with
what remains of the thirteenth-century frescoes), there is an archway that
leads to the Saint's sepulchre, with a terracotta statue attributed
to Buglioni set on it, and to the Christian catacombs. The middle
ambulatory has numerous niches with inscriptions and traces of paintings.
Another important monument is the castle of
Monaldeschi della Cervara, a square complex with corner towers that
overlooks the town. The building dates to the thirteenth-fourteenth century.
It was devastated by the local population in 1815 to prevent it from falling
into the hands of Lucien Bonaparte, and was subsequently constructed as we
see it today. The Territorial Museum of Lake Bolsena is located
inside the castle. It covers three floors plus an exterior courtyard with
the lapidarium. The ground floor, on which the entrance is located,
contains the section on rock formation and volcanic activity in the area,
the section on ancient history (Copper Age, Bronze Age and Iron Age) and the
one on the Etruscan period of the area around the lake. This floor ends with
the oldest evidence of the foundation of the Roman city of Volsinii. The
upper floor is dedicated to a display of the wealth of archaeological
documentation uncovered by the excavations of the Roman city of Volsinii.
Some of the materials on exhibit include the House of Paintings and
the Dionysian throne known as the Throne of the Panthers, an
excellent work dating to the beginning of the second century BC.
The lower floor represents a historic excursion to
medieval Bolsena, with particular reference to the Monaldeschi castle. The
museum incorporates its ancient defensive walls and the street that led to
the town below, marked off by showcases displaying the medieval ceramics
discovered in the butto (drainage well) of the main tower. This
section ends with the exhibit dedicated to the lake and fishing.
Below the castle is the elegant Renaissance building of Palazzo
del Drago, which is interesting because of the Tuscan traits of its
architecture, as well as the city of frescoes documenting the presence in
Viterbo of a Roman Mannerist phase prior to the Zuccari brothers. In the
vault in the entrance hall, there are outstanding grotesqueries against a
black-and-white background and frames with stories about Alexander, while
the walls are covered with large monochrome landscapes. The Banquet of
the Gods is portrayed on the vault of the adjacent room, which has
scenes and figures done on the walls in grisaille. Located on the
piano nobile is the Hall of Judgement, which features a coffered ceiling
and monochrome frescoes that imitate the work of Pierin del Vaga and
Pellegrino Tibaldi. In the main square, we can admire the church of San
Francesco (open only far religious functions). It dates to the
thirteenth century, as evinced by the lovely Gothic portal.
Noteworthy archaeological finding include the ruins of
the ancient city walls, made of tuff blocks marked with Etruscan letters, as
well as funerary monuments dating to the first century AD, visible at the
beginning of the road to Orvieto. In the same direction (in Poggio Moscini),
you can admire the ruins of the Roman city.
Lake Bolsena
This crater in the Volsini mountains is filled with
relatively clear water (surface area 114 square km, perimeter 63 km,
maximum depth 146 m).
As far as its size is concerned, it is the fifth
largest lake in Italy and is the largest lake of volcanic origin in Europe.
The towns of Bolsena, Marta and Capodimonte overlook the lake. There are two
islands in the middle of the lake, Bisentina and Martana. The former (surface
area 17 hectares) has a unique natural habitat dotted with elegant
artistic element: sixteenth-century aedicules from the Farnese period and
the church of SS. Giacomo e Cristoforo with the annexed Franciscan convent,
currently transformed into guest rooms. The island, which is privately owned,
can be visited during the summer with small boats and motorboats that leave
from the small ports of Bolsena and Capodimonte ("Alto Lazio" boat
services of Bolsena and "La Bussola" boat services
of Capodimonte).
Martana island (10 hectares), which is also privately
owned, is remembered because of the tragic death of Amalasunta, the queen of
the Ostrogoths who, as legend would have it, was killed on this secluded
site by her hu sband Theodatus.
A scenic route - not to be missed for thebeauty of
the countryside and the magnificent views of the lake - connects the
town of San Lorenzo Nuovo, Grotte di Castro, Gradoli, Valentano, Capodimonte,
Marta and Montefiascone.
Launched stones
About a kilometre from the city, along the Via Cassia
leading to Montefiascone, a very rare geological formation can be seen.
It is composed of prisms driven into the rock, a reminder of
some of the volcanic activity in the area. It was formed by a lava
stream whose lower part took longer to cool, thus giving it an unusual
appearance. The local population refers to the formation as “launched
stones”.
The “Mysteries of St. Christina”
This takes pIace on the evening of 23 July and the
morning of the next day. Through about a dozen plastic "pictures"
on stages set in the historic centre, they commemorate the trials of the
young Christina during the Christian persecution, from which she emerged
unharmed until she died under the arrows of killers led by her father. The
theatre representations are all that remains of a popular cult that was more
complex in the past. The scenes are brought to life by silent and motionless
figures (over a hundred): St. Christina floating on the stone in the lake,
torture by the wheel, imprisonment, torture by the furnace, the demons,
flagellation, the destruction of idols, the asps, death by arrows,
deposition in the sepulchre. The heroine of Bolsena, who lived during
the third century, is venerated in many italian places, as well as in France
and Germany. Her cult began in the fourth century, but there were no
official accounts of her martyrdom - which was legendary - until
the ninth century.