The town is renowned far the impressive Palazzo Farnese
that dominates the historic centre. Construction of the palace started at
the turn of the sixteenth century aver a pre-existing pentagonal fortress
started by Sangallo, and it is considered one of the masterpieces of late
Italian Mannerism. It was built by Cardinal Alexander Farnese, nephew of Paul
III, who had the plans drawn up by a group of architects led by Jacopo Barozzi
of Vignola. It was intended to consecrate the power and glory of the strong
family of European rank. Inside the palace there is a superb cycle of frescoes
and decorations done based on a study by Annibal Caro and entrusted to a group
of artists, including the Zuccari brothers, Bertoja, Giovanni de' Vecchi
Raffaellino da Reggio, Giovanni Antonio da Varese, Antonio Tempesti and others.
The result is a princely residence that interprets every
detail of courtly life, crowded with artists, men of letters, men of art and
culture, family members and servants - all of whom are included in a strict
hierarchy that has masterfully been transferred to the constructional work
that places the "gentleman" at the top of the social scale, in a
world far tram human misery. The piano nobile, accessed by a magnificent
spiral staircase, is reserved for him.
A staircase with two converging sets of stairs leads to the
entrance of honour. The walls of the entrance hall are frescoed with
scenes showing the ports of Malta and Messina, while the vaults are decorated
with the various coats of arms of the Farnese family and with two views of
Caprarola, the work of Federico Zuccari and his school (1566-1569). On the
left, the spiral staircase, a masterpiece by Vignola, was frescoed by
Antonio Tempesti (1580-1583) with landscapes, grotesqueries, mottoes,
emblems, undertakings and so on. The staircase leads to the piano nobile.
Sala dei Fatti d'Ercole (Federico Zuccari,
1566-1569). The hall is embellished with a large rustic fountain made of
mosaic, stucco work and calcareous concretions, with marble putti that spew
water into the antique yellow basin. The vault, decorated with stucco work,
depicts the Labours of Hercules and the legend of the creation of the lake
of Vico, while views of the Farnese estates are depicted on the walls.
Chapel (Federico Zuccari, 1566-1569). This harmonious
setting with a circular layout has an elegant floor and two-tone
terracotta and marble. There are lovely frescoes on the vault, embellished
with excellent stucco work with biblical stories. The figures of the apostles,
the Three Marys at the sepulchre, the Pietà and St. John
the Baptist are portrayed on the walls.
Sala dei Fasti Farnesiani (Taddeo Zuccari, 1560-1566).
This is one of the palace's richest and most magnificent rooms, with large
frames enclosing beautiful frescoes that celebrate the most important
events in the life of Cardinal Alexander. Depicted on the vault, which is
also distinguished by one of the Farnese coats of arms amidst detailed stucco
work, are scenes with battles, investitures, treaties and other events
involving the noble house.
Left wall: Departure of Cardinal Alexander, Octavius
Farnese and Charles V against the Lutherans - Entry of Charles V,
Francis I and Alexander Farnese to Paris. Back wall: Paul III names his
son Pier Luigi emperor of the papal army - Portrait of Henry II of
France - Paul III names his nephew Horace prefect of Rome.
Right wall: Card. Alexander and Charles V stipulate a
pact in Worms for the war against the Lutherans - Julius III gives
Alexander Farnese the duchy of Parma and he, in turn, grants it to his brother
Octavius. Wall at the entrance: Paul III marries Octavius Farnese and
Margaret of Austria - Portrait of Philip II of Spain - Wedding
of Horace Farnese with Diana of Valois.
Sala del Concilio di Trento (Taddeo Zuccari,
1560-1566). The large frames, which seem to be inspired by Raphael's work in
the Vatican rooms, illustrate the main events in the pontificate of Paul III,
including the convocation of the famous Council of Trent. Depicted on the
vault, which is embellished with stucco work with friezes and arabesques, is
the Coronation of Paul III. Left wall: Convocation of the Council of
Trent. Back wall: Charles V and Paul III after the capture of Tunisi. Right
wall: Paul III names four cardinals as his successors. Wall at the
entrance: Paul III promotes the truce of Nice between Charles V and Francis
I. The four frescoed Corinthian columns in the corners are an original
perspective device by Vignola.
Camera dell'Aurora (Taddeo Zuccari, 1560-1566). An
allegory of the night is painted on the vault. Also noteworthy is the
perspective of the columns, which give the ceiling greater depth.
Camera dei Lanefici (Taddeo Zuccari and school,
1560-1566). Subjects related to weaving are depicted on the vault.
Stanza della Solitudine (Taddeo Zuccari and school,
1560-1566). Sacred stories, historic figures and philosophers deep in
meditation are portrayed on the vault.
Gabinetto dell'Ermatena (Federico Zuccari and school,
1566-1569). Hermes and Atena are portrayed on the vault; in the
corners science and art instruments.
Stanza del Torrione. This room was made in the thick
walls of one of the corner keeps ofthe pentagon. The coffered ceiling, in
Lebanese cedar decorated with the Farnese coat of arms, is notable.
Camera della Penitenza (Jacopo Bertoja, 1569-1572).
On the vault is the Exaltation of the Cross, while the lateral frames
show figures and scenes of the hermitic life.
Camera dei Giudizi (Jacopo Bertoja, 1569-1572). The Judgement
of Solomon is portrayed on the vault.
Camera dei Sogni (attributed to Giovanni de' Vecchi,
1576). Jacob's dream is portrayed on the vault.
Sala degli Angeli (Giovanni de' Vecchi and Raffaellino
da Reggio, 1575). On the vault is a scene showing Lucifer being driven
from Paradise. Left wall: The prophet Daniel in the lions' den. Back
wall: Apparition of the angel in Gargano. Right wall: Annunciation
of the angel to Gedeone. Wall at the entrance: Apparition of the angel
at Castel Sant'Angelo.
Sala del Mappamondo (Giovanni Antonio da Varese and
Raffaellino da Reggio, 1574). The most important element is represented by the
maps on the longer walls, painted and illuminated in gold, showing the four
continents known at that time: Europe, Asia, Africa and the two Americas. At
the head: Italy, Judea and the entire globe. The vault shows the majestic
planetary system with the constellation of the zodiac; in false niches over
the doors and windows are portraits of Magellan, Marco Polo, Christopher
Columbus, Amerigo Vespucci and Hernando Cortez.
A magnificent park-garden opens out in a vast area
behind the palace and, while repeating the motifs of the late Renaissance it
is an anticipation of the architectural concepts of the Baroque. The garden is
accessed through the Sala dei Giudizi that opens out onto the winter garden.
At back of the garden is the Fontana del Ninfeo, filled with
stalactites. The lower level has already been set up as a stage for theatre
presentations. On the right, past a gate and across the park you come to first
terrace of the garden looking out onto the Palazzina del Piacere. The
entrance is guarded by two half-figures on a pedestal. The Fontana del
Giglio is in the centre and on the sides there are two pavilions decorated
in rustic mosaic, preparing the access to a staircase divided by a stream of
water - known as Delfini - that ends in a large shell. On the second
elliptical terrace is the Fontana dei Fiumi, with two giants
symbolising the Tigris and Euphrates. Off to the sides, two symmetrical ramps
lead to the level of the Caryatids, surrounded by 28 statues. The Palazzina
del Piacere is in the background - an elegant structure with a courtyard and a
loggia richly decorated with frescoes. Lastly, you ascend to the top terrace
with a travertine fountain and a hemicycle of the nymphs.
The Saloni delle Scuderie, near the palace, are
halls that have recently been restructured to host cultural activities.
However, it was not just the palace that marked the novelty
of Vignola's work, but this was extended to include the layout of the city,
conceived as a community at the service of nobility. The houses are laid out
symmetrically to enhance the view of the palace, whose impressive facade can
be seen from afar between two rows of houses dating to the fifteenth-sixteenth
century.
The church of Santa Maria della Consolazione has a
series of frescoes and stuccoes dating to the sixteenth-seventeenth century,
as well as a lovely ceiling in sculptured wood with scenes of the Coronation
of the Virgin and figures of the saints.
On the first altar on the right in the cathedral is
a fifteenth-century tavola of the Saviour Benedictory, while behind the
main altar is a seventeenth-century canvas of Francesco Cozza (Our Lady in
Glory with Child and Saints Peter, Paul, Anthony of Padua, Dominic and Blaise).
Not far from the city centre you can admire the church
of Santa Teresa with the annexed convent. Built based on a drawing by
Rainaldi in the seventeenth century, there is an altarpiece by Turchi on the
right altar (St. Anthony of Padua preaches to the fish), a painting
by Guido Reni on the main altar (Madonna del Carmine and the saints) and
a canvas by Lanfranco over the left altar portraying St. Sylvester and the
dragon.