The town is set on the Volsini hillsides in upper Tuscia,
in a charming position on Lake Bolsena. In the historic centre, we can admire Palazzo
Farnese and the church of the Maddalena. The palace testifies to
the splendour that the city enjoyed during the first half of the sixteenth
century. The building was constructed around 1515 for the wedding of Pier
Luigi Farnese, and Girolama argini. The plans were drawn up by Antonio da
Sangallo the Younger, who was commissioned by Cardinal Alexander, who would
become Pope Paul III. In the vast representation halls, you can see the
fireplaces in peperino stone and the lovely wooden ceilings with traces of
pictorial decorations. The windows afford a marvellous view of Lake Bolsena.
Inside, there is a small museum with ceramics dating to the
fifteenth-sixteenth century, volumes from the historic archives of the commune
dating from 1500 to 1800, and the first section on Renaissance customs.
The church of the Maddalena, with its Baroque facade
and eighteenth-century bell tower, has a Renaissance baptismal font made of
marble and a "detached" sixteenth-century fresco depicting the Madonna
with Child. A room set up as a small museum of sacred art unfolds
the lovely surprise of a fresco cycle done by the Mannerist school depicting
the Passion of Christ, fifteen tavolas from the sixteenth century
depicting the Mysteries of the Rosary and a collection of liturgical
paraments, sacred furnishings, candelabras and votive offerings.
The “Lunch of Purgatori”
On Ash Wednesday, the industrial building of the Gradoli
winery opens its doors to welcome about 2000 "penitents" who start
Lent with a meatless meal. The menu has been the same for centuries - dating
undoubtedly to the sixteenth century, as attested to by a document that
mentions the Brotherhood of suffrage (today Confraternity of Purgatory), the
driving force behind this unique gastronomic idea. For one day, its members
become cooks and waiters, and without the help of any women, they prepare the
"Lunch of Purgatory". The meal starts with white beans dressed in
oil, followed by rice in tench broth with pike innards, pike stew, fried hake,
stockfish with garlic, oil and parsley, ravioli stuffed with ricotta, and
wine, with a final toast with local Aleatico. The out-of-pocket expenses are
subsidised by local residents who, during a public auction, bid far the items
donated by the "brothers" of the confraternity.