The town rises on the southern banks of Lake Bolsena,
across from the island of Martana where Amalasunta, the queen of the Goths,
was imprisoned and killed by her husband Theodatus. An emissary - the only one
at the lake - near the small harbour flows to the beach of Tarquinia. The
historic centre, distinguished by a sturdy octagonal tower (the remains of the
thirteenth-century castle built by Urban IV), has all the characteristics of
a fishing village, with modest little houses whose ground floors along the
lakefront host cosy trattorias offering fish specialities.
The eighteenth-century church of Santa Maria
preserves a gold filigree chalice dating to the sixth century and a precious
reliquary that, according to tradition, contains a piece of the arm of St.
John the Baptist. In a tufaceous cave along the road to Capodimonte, the
faithful venerate the miraculous image of Our Lady, who appeared to three
local children on 19 May 1948.
The small sanctuary of Madonna del Monte, done
originally in the Romanesque style, is located on a beautiful hill-side
overlooking the lake, not far from town. The sanctuary, which was partially
reconstructed in the nineteenth century, has a painting of the Virgin Mary
done by the Florentine school.
The Barabbata
The Barabbata is the feast of Our Lady of the Mountain
(14th May), celebrating the fertility of the earth. The men, divided into
ancient guilds, go to the sanctuary of Madonna del Monte in a procession.
There are men on horses, ploughmen, peasants and fishermen, who bring carts,
animals, hoes, spades, boats, fishing lines and nets, together with coloured
trophies called "fountains". The cortege, which begins at 10 a.m.,
proceeds over a carpet of wildflowers to the sound of prayers and hymns.
When they reach the sanctuary, the faithful attend Mass. Then the traditional
"Passes" begin to honour Our Lady. Each "category" takes
three turns around the church, entering through the main door and exiting
behind the presbytery. The festival may date to the cult of Maia, the goddess
of fertility to whom festivals and churches were dedicated to ensure her
favour. The "Barabbata" is also a wonderful opportunity to taste
ricotta and cheese that are prepared in front of the sanctuary.
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