This picturesque village is enclosed by crenellated walls,
presided over by embattled towers. It lies on a tuff bank amidst great
cliffs. Because of its loyalty to Rome, in the Middle Ages it was given the
privilege - which it still has - of being represented at the Campidoglio
by a Constable and several footmen known as the "Faithfuls".
The first monument we come across is a Moai sculpted
on the site several years ago by a group of artisans from Easter Island.
Just inside the Porta Romana, it is worth stopping in the church
of Sant'Amanzio to appreciate a fine Annunciation of 1514. A little
way beyond is a small square (with a graceful thirteenth-century fountain on a
shaft with the symbols of the Evangelists), overlooked by the House of the
Podestà and the Palazzo Comunale, which preserves an interesting
collection of manuscripts, bulls and parchments, including an ordinance
regulating vassalage dating to 1267.
The church of Santa Maria Assunta has a fine side
portal and a soaring bell tower with three orders of single-light,
doublelight, and triple-light windows dating to the thirteenth century.
Inside, besides remains of frescoes, we can see a Renaissance baptismal font
and a pensile pulpit from the sixteenth century. The medieval quarter is
picturesque, with alleys, small squares, “profferli” (external stairs),
balconies, arches and the complex of the former convent of Sant'Agnese, now
the premises of an elegant hotel. From several lookout points, we can enjoy a
wonderful view of the gully over the Fosso Acqua Fredda. Just outside the
town, at the beginning of the road to Viterbo, the church of San Nicola
(annexed to the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie) preserves a
fresco cycle executed by different hands at various times in the
sixteenth-eighteenth century period, some of which are ingenuous and simple,
offering us valuable documentation on contemporary customs and scenes. Others
are more demanding, reflecting the influence of artists of rank belonging to
the schools of Pastura, Pinturicchio and Perugino. Particularly worth
mentioning is the Madonna of Succour between St. Mark and the bishop St.
Liberato: the Virgin is spreading out her cloak as a symbol of maternal
protection towards a great crowd of women in childbirth. Also of artistic
merit is a St. Sebastian, probably executed some time around 1522. The
magnificent scene of the Last Judgement and Glory of Christ that
occupies the vault of the apse (dated 1548) shows, amidst the crowd of figures,
a realistic image of Satan in the act of biting and swallowing one of the
damned. The oldest painting is the fresco of the Madonna di San Nicola contained
in an altarpiece on the high altar. As tradition would have it, this image
is the protector of young newlyweds.